The Quest for Espresso: Day 1-Bio Zahrada

by Jason Keller on October 14, 2010

Day one:

As I set out with  new hope, I made my way to Namesti Miru to visit Bio Zahrada.  With a little help from my iPhone and Google maps, my query was quickly located.  I took a look at their web site before my visit to see what I was getting myself into.  I have to say, it looked promising.  They offer La Bohemie espresso, and a small selection of single origin coffees served in press pots.  As a bonus, they also feature an integrated organic market:  This was starting my journey on the right foot.  When I arrived I found the cafe warm with a few cozy tables in the front and a passage to an equally inviting seating area in the back…but that’s not really what I’m here for.  Let’s get down to business.

The set up they are running is a Dalla Corte single group with Macap grinders.  My only real complaint after a visual inspection was the grinder’s hopper gate standing open.  This is no good for the burrs in their grinder or the espresso.  Not to be deterred, I took a seat and placed my order.  To my dismay, they, and all other cafes I have been to, serve only a single espresso in a demitasse or an espresso lungo in a larger mug.  I decided to stick with the espresso solo.  When it arrived, the crema was a pale gold with intermittent dark speckling.  Though present, the crema was not sturdy enough to last.  The bouquet was floral with a hint of chocolate, but those flavors didn’t come through to my palate.  It was citrusy and earthy with a hint of pine on the back end.  The acidity was mild, but the shot was thin and a bit under-extracted.  I have a feeling that the acidity in a fully extracted shot could be unpleasant if it wasn’t paired with milk.  The under-extraction I mention seems to be a regional style of sorts, but I don’t think I could ever love it.

I was fortunate enough to catch up with the owner as I was taking a few photos.  I was pleased to hear that I could have had the double espresso I so desired, but it is rarely requested, which causes a bit of confusion when ordering.  He explained that most folks in Prague expect an espresso lungo when they order a double espresso.  This explains the under-extraction.  At the time I had taken more than enough coffee for the day, so I resisted the urge to have another shot.  It appears I will have to withhold my final judgment until I return for a proper double espresso.  What I can say with certainty is that they are knowledgeable and do take their coffee seriously.  I definitely recommend a visit, but be careful how you order to be sure you get what you’re looking for. Join me tomorrow for a look at Friends Coffee House in Stare Mesto.

Share this post:
  • Digg
  • del.icio.us
  • Facebook
  • MySpace
  • Twitter

{ 2 comments… read them below or add one }

Jasonxkeller October 19, 2010 at 4:08 am

I would like to apologize and clarify the issue with ordering. When I spoke with Martin, he told me that most Czech folks simply ordering “espresso,” expect an espresso lungo. If you clarify that you want a double ristretto, you will receive just what you’re looking for. Please do check them out.

Gabriele December 3, 2010 at 2:31 pm

Yes, I confirm, I work in an Italian coffee company, Mokaflor, and we have clients in several “mitteleuropean” countries. Very often an Espresso become an Espresso lungo, and in several shops I have seen that, if we serve the real Italian espresso (around 25ml) some people say that is too short (even to be paid…) :-)

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post: